How To Pick The Right Exfoliating Acid For You
How To
pick the right exfoliating acid for your skin type
It’s time to ditch the coarse exfoliators and opt for a chemical one instead. Let’s compare AHA vs. BHA vs. PHA and figure out exactly which acid is right for your skin type. Before we dive into all things acid-related, have you figured out what your skin type is? Use this diagram to give you an idea as to what your skin type is! However, if you’re still unsure, leave a comment below explaining how your skin behaves and I’ll help you out as best as I can!
If you already know your skin type, let’s jump right into each acid and how they can help your skin. Be sure to read to the end so you can learn about how to keep your skin safe whilst using these ingredients.
What are AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’s?
All of these are names for types of acid compounds that essentially tackle skin ageing. Whilst each one is more suited to a specific skin type, their benefits include helping the skin look more youthful and feel smoother. Let’s take a look at each one and figure out whether it’s right for your skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
also known as: AHA’s
AHA’s are a chemical compound that work by exfoliating the skin. They are great at breaking up and removing dead skin cells. By breaking up dead skin cells, they help remove that top layer of skin, revealing a newer layer of skin underneath. If you suffer from sun spots, AHA’s are great for helping to brighten the skin. They are also known for encouraging cell turnover, so some people may experience ‘purging’ when they use any of these ingredient for the first time.
AHA’s are known as:
- Lactic acid
- Glycolic acid (most popular!)
- Citric acid
- Mandelic acid
AHA’s are great for
- Dry or dehydrated skin
- Ageing skin
- Skin with dark spots or pigmentation
Beta Hydroxy Acids
also known as: BHA’s
BHA’s are a chemical compound that work by encouraging the break-up of dead, top layer skin cells whilst being able to penetrate deeper into the skin to target lower level clogged pores. If you suffer from whiteheads, blackheads, or oily skin in general, this oil-loving group of chemicals will work well at helping improve your skin texture and pimples on your skin.
BHA’s are known as:
- Salicylic acid (most popular!)
- Tropic acid
- Trethocanic Acid
BHA’s are great for
- Oily or acne-prone skin
- Normal skin
- Textured skin
Poly Hydroxy Acids
also known as: PHA’s
Similar to AHA’s, this chemical compound works by exfoliating the top layer of skin whilst promoting hydration. They are usually less irritating because their molecular size is larger than the others, meaning it takes longer to absorb into the skin and become effective. This is more beneficial for sensitive skin as chemical exfoliants can be quite harsh.
PHA’s are known as:
- Gluconolactone
- Galactose
- Lactobionic acid
PHA’s are great for
- Sensitive skin
- Normal skin
- Dehydrated skin
My Personal Favourite Exfoliating Products (as an oily girl)
As an oily, acne-prone girl myself, I do use a BHA exfoliant a few times a week. My go-to is the Paula’s Choice BHA Chemical Exfoliating Liquid. Personally, I apply this in the evening and the next morning, my texture and breakouts have massively improved. As someone who suffers from skin texture, I’ve found that also using a Retinol has massively increased the appearance and smoothness my skin. It is not recommend to use these two products at the same time to begin with. I currently alternate in the evenings – one night I use the BHA, the other night I use Retinol. But, I’m only doing this because I’ve allowed my skin to get use to these products beforehand. I spent a few weeks allowing my skin to adjust to Retinol and luckily, experienced very little irritation. No purging, irritation or redness at all. For me, that meant it was safe to introduce a BHA sooner.
Likewise, my skin has always reacted well to BHA. Again, even from the first use, I experienced little irritation or redness the following morning. Because I knew my skin can handle BHA, I’ve slowly introduced both Retinol and BHA into my routine. I am still alternating these products because to me, that’s the safest option.
If you are intrigued about introducing a Retinol or acid or you find that your skin is quite reactive to either of these, I would highly recommend sticking to just one. Also, another great tip is to double up on your moisturiser in the evening. Until your skin is 100% comfortable with using these products every night with zero discomfort, only then can you introduce a new product.
PHA vs. BHA as an oily girl
I also tried using ‘The Inkey List’s PHA Toner’, and yes, I did suffer from a huge amount of ‘purging’ the first time I used it. I’m not too sure if I will use this product again just because I had a completely different reaction to it compared to BHA and Retinol. One thing to note is that PHA is suppose to be less aggressive than BHA, so I find it quite odd how my skin reacted more to PHA vs. BHA.
If you are acne prone or oily and you are currently suffering from active breakouts or blackheads, consider using a BHA first. It’s really important to understand that mixing any HA (hydroxy acids) with Retinol or Vitamin C can cause irritation and damage to your skin barrier. I found Paula’s Choice BHA Exfoliating Liquid to be the most gentle on my skin compared to Retinol or the Inkey List’s PHA Toner for the first time. (Bear in mind – I used these 2 products weeks apart from each other just to be safe!).
Keeping Your Skin Safe
Always remember to use an SPF 30 or higher if you are using AHA, BHA or PHA in the morning. It is recommend to us those before bed to avoid sun exposure all together. Just remember to wash it off the following morning. The same rule applies for Retinol.
Likewise, doubling up on the same chemical exfoliant isn’t recommended, either. If you use a cleanser with Salicylic acid and follow up with a BHA product, you could find that it might irritate your skin. Some people find that mixing different HA’s (hydroxy acids) slowly into their routine can be beneficial, but I wouldn’t personally recommend using them at the same time.
Similarly, if you use Vitamin C in the morning (as recommended!) you can safely use a HA product in the evening. DO NOT mix Vit. C with any of the above mentioned products at the same time. Please take your skincare seriously and consider simplifying your routine. For instance, only introducing one new ingredient to your skin at any given time is the best plan of action to keep your skin safe. As much as I want to encourage using products to tackle your skin issues, I also don’t want you to ruin your skin barrier. Always err on the side of caution and if you think you shouldn’t mix two ingredients together, it’s probably best not to.
Do Your Research!
Always check the full ingredient list or give any products that you think might be conflicting a quick google search. This has saved me many times from accidentally mixing two products together on my skin that should NOT be mixed. For instance, I had no clue that mixing my Polyglutamic acid serum with my Glycolic acid toner was causing a random episode of irritation! Do your research, folks!
If you are completely unsure about what you should and shouldn’t mix, drop a comment below. I’ll do my very best to guide you.
Likewise, if you are struggling to figure out the perfect skincare routine for your skin type, read this blog post!
Which Hydroxy Acid Is Right For Your Skin Type?
USE THIS GUIDE TO HELP YOU PICK THE RIGHT ACID FOR YOUR SKIN TYPE:
I hope this post was helpful and informative – and not too confusing to follow. I know that learning new terms and their uses can be tough, but hopefully, if you save these info cards, you should be able to figure out which products work for your skin.
Just remember, what works for me as an oily skin + acne prone girl, might not work for other oily and acne prone girls. Sadly, the truth of skincare is that trial and error is a must. I feel I have to include this disclaimer purely because I know that skin is so specific.
Finally, if you are struggling with your skin, please do not feel you need to introduce 100 new products and tackle everything at once. Don’t underestimate the power of internal work, such as diet, exercise, and hormones. If you are really struggling with your skin, please consider speaking to a dermatologist. Most skincare issues for women are hormonal, so consider speaking to a doctor too. Likewise, a healthy, varied diet with lots of vitamins and minerals and exercise can be the best, natural fix for skincare issues.
If you are still unsure about which acid is right for your skin type, drop a comment and I’ll do my best to guide you!
Lots of love, as always,
1 comment
Comments are closed.